Housing

Proper housing is essential if you wish to raise show poultry. If your birds cannot move about and stay clean, they will never reach their potential, nor will they be as healthy as they could be. It cannot be overlooked that chickens in general are territorial animals, and a degree of separation must be maintained in order to allow them to grow without the stress and damage from fighting. Also you must keep in mind that any show animal must be handled gently and frequently, requiring that pens must be constructed so you can catch the birds without a chase. For a bare minimum, I recommend a 2’ x 3’ pen for a pair or trio of adult birds, with a barrier between cages or pens. Suggestions for construction are as follows.

Use a solid plywood floor, with paneling sides at least 12 inches tall to hold in the litter and prevent quarreling between pens. Provide a roost at least 12 inches, and preferably 18 inches from the floor, with adequate overhead space so tails are not damaged by the overhead wire or ceiling. I have many cages that are 24 inches tall, and these are inadequate for Japanese Bantam males. Keep your Japanese Bantams on soft litter at all times, and maintain it so it is never damp. Fine pine shavings make excellent litter, but beware that many brands are coarse and make poor litter. Straw is probably the worst choice, and I recommend against cedar because of the toxic oils. Always insist on seeing what is in the bag before buying it.

Build your pens so that you can easily catch your birds—never more than 24 inches from the door to the back.. There are many ways to build cages, but the easiest and most efficient I have found is to use rabbit cage wire and let the wire provide the structure for the sides and top. This wire makes the use of cage feed and water cups practical, and also allows for easy roost placement if you cut your roost to fit through the 1” x 2” holes. I use plywood paneling to line the sides and back 12” high, and 4” across the front. Wire doors are easily attached by using cage rings from the poultry supply catalog. Spring wire latches are inexpensive and easy to fasten to the door with cage rings.

I have also enjoyed good success using floor pens. I have a series of 4’ x 5’ pens under a shed roof, enclosed on all four sides by 2’ tall plywood; screened to the outside, and closed to each other and the aisle with poultry netting. For added security against predators, the outside screen is protected with chain link. Each pen has a series of roosts so even the laziest bird can find its way to the top roost 5’ off the floor. These pens serve as breeding enclosures, and six or eight adult birds, and can easily accommodate 25 chicks.

Whatever your poultry house looks like, or what your climate is, your housing needs to provide basic shelter and security. Ventilation is a must, and never should your chicken house be extremely hot or cold. Except for in the most mild climates, I strongly suggest an insulated roof. This will go a long way toward moderating the extremes of hot and cold. Heating is largely unnecessary in most climates, though there is nothing wrong with a heat lamp on extremely cold nights. Just remember that if you are uncomfortable or offended by odors, so are the chickens. Also, if the facility is not pleasant to visit, you will not enjoy the hobby and devote the necessary attention, nor reap the potential rewards.