New Years Day, Wednesday January 24^th

Although our car and driver weren't due until 9 am, we were provided a 6am wake up call. Even though we had stayed up past midnight for a fantastic show with dragon dancing (both outside on the street and then again in the hotel), we were ready to get up by around seven anyway and went down for breakfast. It was the best so far -- the omelet chef was great, and they even had some sushi on the buffet.  

We then set off with Edward and our driver (who had been the support team van driver for our whole tour). We started off looking for my old residence, the Massachusetts hotel. Although I drew a map with the tan San Nhut airport main gate as the reference point, it was little help. The main gate has moved, and there has been an unbelievable amount of construction in the area. The one landmark that I did recognize was the old Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) headquarters, although that main entrance had also been moved. Our driver's solution was simplicity itself. He just kept stopping in likely neighborhoods and asking old people, who might remember. Eventually we pinned down the old Third Field Hospital, now a war museum. The old Massachusetts hotel should have been two buildings to the left. In its place was a new (1996) Park Royal Garden Plaza. The reception staff indicated that the site had previously been the location of an army hotel. At the Garden Plaza, we bought a small doll and an egg shell painting. So, I am reasonably sure that we found it. No luck finding the old office site, although I am fifty per cent certain that a new restaurant complex now occupies that site.

We continued on to search for Ed's haunts. We found Phu Tho race track easily, but could not get inside. We then looked for the old Capitol Hotel where he had lived. We went around and around, but after a few stops to talk to the old people, and a call to VYC headquarters (the travel agency), we pinned it down. then we looked for the Cholon PX.  This was even harder. At one point we thought we had found it in what was now a hospital for ethnic minorities. But it didn't look quite right, and finally we found it. It is now a combination scrap metal yard and metal fabrication facility (they appear to make safes). A man inside took us around and Ed found his old office. Our escort was delighted when we gave him a modest tip as a New Year's gift.  

We looked for the Hard Rock Cafe (having seen a cap for sale) and found a padlocked hole in the wall. So back to the hotel.  

We had lunch in the hotel (a "jumbo burger" for me and a veggie sandwich for Kathleen). Not bad.  We dropped off five rolls of film, and then I went for a cyclo ride with this man who has politely approached me every time I left the hotel. We traveled around, stopping at two Buddhist temples where I went in and took pictures. Because it is Tet, the temples are all jammed, with people burning incense. Inside it is much like a church bazaar with sales of food, Incense, lottery tickets and everything else going on.  

All over the city this morning, we saw teams of dragon dance performers moving from location to location.

My overall impression of the city is that it is much cleaner, less smelly and as busy as ever. Walking around the hotel we were besieged by beggars and everyone warned us to guard our valuables.

When the traffic slightly intimidated me last night, one cyclo driver stopped to guide me across the street by the elbow. Today's cyclo driver (before I had agreed to a ride) followed us to insist that I put my camera strap around my neck and hold it in front of me. Kathleen did foil two pickpockets who were trying to get my wallet while I was photographing the dragon dancers last night.