Riding Position, Ergonomics, and Saddles
The "Yoga" Master Riding
Position (YMRP)
It seems easy enough to hop on the bike and ride as you landed.
However, as with other concepts in motorcycling, counter-intuition sometimes prevails.
The Master Yoga Riding Position has four components that are used together to achieve a relaxed, flexible, and balanced position on the bike.
1. Pelvic Thrust: Support of the upper body requires that the pelvis be tilted forward to produce an curve in the lower back. That is, lean forward at the hips and backwards at the waist. This is why quality car seats and office chairs have lumbar supports. The seat of the K12RS is sloped down towards the front. This allows the rider to more easily achieve a forward tilt of the pelvis while still leaning the upper body forward. (Note that most riders tilt the pelvis back and arch the back...just the opposite.)
2. Brain Pan Balance: As the upper body is leaned forward, the neck may be kept straight in line with the upper spine or curved back slightly. This allows more flexibility in position while keeping the rider's center of gravity (RCOG) over the pegs. Placing the RCOG over the pegs allows better support of the upper torso by the leg and lower back muscles and thus less strain / fatigue.
3. Ape Hanging: The wrists are relaxed and allowed to bend slightly up so that the hands "hang" from the handlebar grips (thumbs under, fingers over). This position results in an anti-carpal tunnel position for most riders and promotes relaxation of the arms and hands. It is conducive to letting the hands rest on the grips rather than grabbing/gripping them. In order to accomplish this, you may need to move the handlebars back with comfort bar risers as this adjustment shortens your reach and raises the handlebars. You may also need to lower the seat in order for the arms to "hang" between the shoulders and the handlebar grips. Note that the wrists may requiring straightening during braking, turning, clutching, etc. The ape hanging is intended as a "rest" position while cruising.
4. Flexible Seat and Feet. The seat position may now vary fore and aft, the range depending on the size and build of the rider. The feet may now feel comfortable with the balls of the feet centered on the pegs as well as the arches of the feet. And positions in between.
The position feels unnatural when first used. Don't give up on it if this is the case. It may take awhile for your muscles and joints to acclimate.
Once mastered, you will find that you can become more relaxed on the bike and ride longer with less fatigue.
The original riding position was previously described by Dick Frantz, a fellow K1200RS owner. The "Yoga Master Riding Position" (pun intended) varies from Dick's "Master Yoda Riding Position" in the following ways:
1. "Bend at the hips, not waist."
The YMRP calls for bending at both the hips and waist.
Bending at the hips brings the lower abdomen forward (lessening the angle between the legs and the lower abdomen and moving the abdomen towards the tank).
Then bending at the waist centers the upper shoulders over the pegs. The waist-bend should be comfortable. And although it moves the shoulders back from the tank, the upper torso remains leaned forward with the lower back curved.
The position concentrates/compacts the RCOG over the pegs and provides proper back posture for supporting the upper torso.
2. "Maintain a slight arch to the back, not allowing it ever to curve."
The YMRP calls for a curve, not an arch, in the lower back region with the abdomen moved forward. Arching of the back is poor posture and will fatigue and stress the back muscles quickly.
3. "Move the butt aft so the weight is over your feet."
With the YMRP you move the shoulders aft to compact your COG and center it over the pegs.
This allows greater flexibility in the seating position. You may find that as you move back on the seat, your feet may feel more comfortable further back on the pegs.
The flexibility results from a combination of the lower back curve and the forward lean of the upper torso. The amount of curve and lean may be increased or decreased independently in order to keep the RCOG balanced over the pegs.
4. "Apply pressure to the feet, using the thigh muscles, so you are sitting lightly."
The YMRP allows for less pressure on the feet as there is better RCOG balance. The lower back curve results in less work for both the leg and back muscles..
5. "Elbows bent, now drop the hands to the bars."
The YMRP calls for bending of the wrists such that the hands hang slightly from the grips by the fingers. This produces an anti-carpal-tunnel-syndrome stance and further limits the tendency to support the upper torso with the hands/arms. The elbows are bent more (smaller angle) but kept relaxed.
You may want to try both techniques and adopt the-best-for-you from each.
Revised
02/18/2006
Use real road experience to determine clip-on (handlebar
position settings)
Putting the bike on the center stand puts the back end up in the air. This may lead to putting the bars back further than needed. Also remember the wind at touring speed will support some upper body weight. You can try to level the bike with small blocks of wood under the front and back tires when checking ergonomics in the garage.
Balancing Act
A) Handle bar position effects the rider's center of gravity (RCOG). Move the bars forward and your center of gravity is also moved forward. Move the bars back and the reverse is true. Ideally, RCOG should be over the pegs for long distance riding in the sport-touring riding position (as opposed to the formal touring or cruiser riding positions with the feet forward and the back perpendicular to the ground).
B) Moving the bars forward moves your elbows closer together. Your hand angles change relative to the wrists. As you move your hands forward, the forearms become more parallel to each other. This may be important on the K12RS, as the bars can not be adjusted by rotating in a horizontal plane, only fore and aft, up and down.
C) Arm strength is greatest at near complete extension. However, you don't want the arms locked straight out as this hampers steering ability and increases jarring form pavement bumps.
D) Leverage. Moving the bars forward lengthens the distance to the pivot axis of the steering assembly. This may result in more leverage and less effort. OTOH, steering may feel slightly sluggish; as the bars need to be moved further to accomplish the same amount of rotation. Think in terms of having a smaller or larger steering wheel in your cage.
E) Moving the bars forward also seems to make it easier to slide back in the seat. With the bars in the full back position, my position on the seat is all the way forward. With the bars in the mid- or full forward-positions, my seating is in the mid-range and moving both back and forward on the seat is easier. This may have to do with the RCOG. However, the more forward bar position also results in more hip flexion and this may contribute.
Rider's Center of Gravity (RCOG)
Adjust your riding position so your center of gravity is over the pegs. This allows for good mobility in seat, ease in getting off of the seat, and lessening of fatigue on long rides.
Set the bike on the center stand and make level it with blocks under the front and back wheels. Sit on the bike with your hands over, but not griping the handgrips. Now rise off the seat using your leg muscles only. You should be balanced just after coming off the seat. Rise and lower several times to get a better feel.
If your center of gravity is forward of the pegs, that is you tend to fall forward when coming out of the seat, you have several choices.
Move the pegs forward (peg lowering plates, all of which also move the feet forward).
Move back in the seat.
Put the seat in the low position.
Move the handgrips aft (the simplest to do-just remember to torque the bolts, but don't over torque!).
A combination of changes may be needed.
If your center of gravity is behind the pegs, that is, you tend to fall back when coming out of the seat; you will have the reverse choices.
Move the grips forward.
Move the pegs to the high position (one rider over 6' is more comfortable with the pegs moved up!).
Lean farther forward.
Move the seat to the high setting.
Again, a combination of changes may be needed.
Handlebar Position
Most riders are comfortable if they can lean forward into the wind. At speed, weight on the handlebars should be minimal as air flowing over the windscreen holds you up. Consider a set of bar back adapters to move the bars aft if the stretch forward is too extreme. Also consider that the wrists should be bent when holding onto the grips. This will help prevent that carpal tunnel thing.
The Handlebar Levers
These should be adjusted so that the tips of your fingers easily slip over them.
Tank Bag Induced Muscle Strain
For some riders, the BMW tank bag limits forward movement of the upper torso. On long trips this may result in riding in a somewhat fixed position and muscle strain.
Better Grips for Less Fatigue
The throttle has a strong spring and may cause fatigue.
Getting a better grip helps decrease effort and improves control.
A cheap fix is to cut sections of bike inner tube, roughen with a wire brush, apply a thin coating of shaving cream to the stock hand grips, and then slip the inner tube segments over the stock hand grips. Make sure the tube diameter is small enough to ensure a tight fit. (Note: This also increases heat output by the heated-hand-grips. See tricks for keeping your hands warm under: Heated Grips/Keeping Warm and Dry/What to Wear)
Another method is to rap the throttle grip with a strip of opened bicycle-inner-tube and secure the end with Shoe-Goo. This increases the diameter of the grip and results in more leverage. (Note: I have used this in a pinch after developing a sore shoulder on one trip.)
Foot Control Levers
You should not have to excessively pivot your left foot, reposition it on the peg or otherwise move from a comfortable position. The K12RS shift lever has two adjustment mechanisms. One is used primarily to make the major adjustment between high and low peg positions. The other is for fine adjustments.
Missing up shifts? Move the lever down. Missing downshifts? Move the lever up. As far as the brake lever is concerned, this should be covered easily.
Still having problems? Consider what type of footgear you use. Sport bikers usually wear boots with little in the way of heel height above the sole. This allows easy fore and aft positioning.
Faux Fleece Seat Cover
Bath mat sheep skin. Use non-slip pad material and attachment straps as needed. Consider using this as a cover for heating pads (heated seat).
Adjustable Seat Latch
The two bolts may be loosened to adjust the location of the latch. The seat should latch without any sloppiness / movement.
Elbows on Knees
You may want to adjust your riding position so that your elbows can rest on your knees when in a tuck position. This takes weight off of your back and forearms. So adjustment of your seating position, fore or aft, may be required in addition.
Lower Captain Pegs
Standard foot pegs for the R1100S reportedly will fit on the K12RS and increase legroom.
Fleece Seat Cover
This will keep your back end cool and dry in the summer and warm in the winter. Get the real stuff.
Cramped Ergonomics?
The ergonomics may feel cramped when you first ride the K1200RS. Some have made immediate modifications while others have gone through a period of discomfort/rider-break-in. Still others have found the bike comfortable from the beginning with no break-in period needed. Because the riding position is different from most other BMWs, it is recommended that you ride the bike for a while before making major changes. This will give your body a chance to adjust (rider-break-in).
Leg Cramps
The K12 riding position is different from most other bikes and may take some getting use to. Some have reported discomfort after 2 hours (cramps in the thighs). This resolves after more riding experience. I had this problem in the beginning. It was helped by taking frequent breaks, setting the saddle height in the high position, and by making a conscious effort to relax the thigh muscles. This break-in cramping happens more often if you are a runner or bicyclist. It is similar to the hand cramps experienced by new riders and partly due to no relaxing the involved muscle groups. It will pass.
Alter Your Riding Position on Tours
Consider alternating your riding position and ergonomics on long trips to increase touring comfort and range. For example, handlebars in a full forward position for a while and then in back a bit. Also see the different riding positions listed above.
Bar Backs
Most require loosening of the cables and wires going to the handlebars. Some minor adjustments needed for the BMW version. The latter are recommended.
How tall are you?
K12RS owners I know range from 5' 4" to 6' 5" in height.
BMW Ergo Options
BMW now sells its own handle bar risers and a thicker / comfort-saddle (2.0 cm. for the captain and 1.0 cm. for the pillion). No peg lowering kits as the thicker saddle and handlebar extenders address the problem of tall riders.
Saddle and Handlebar Adjustments for Sport Riding
Moving the saddle from the low to high position moves your center of gravity (COG), higher and forward. This makes it easier to lie on the tank. Moving the bars forward moves your COG forward and also makes it easier to get on the tank. Consider a tank pad if you don't have a riding suit with chest armor/pad (Dainese makes an under the suit vest with back, rib, and chest armor/padding).
Changing Ergonomics For Summer And Winter Riding
Use the low seat position for winter riding. This moves your legs closer to the side fairing pockets, increases relative windscreen height, and traps engine heat under the saddle. And with the bars in the same position, it results in a more upright riding position to accommodate winter riding gear. For summer riding, move the seat to the high position for the opposite effects.
OEM Saddle
Ride on the stock for a while before going after market. Many have found the stock seat provides the best comfort after the butt gets use to it (rider-break-in). This may need to be repeated each spring.
Re-tighten Bar Backs
Remember to retighten the bar backs after a short time to compensate for the teeth becoming fully seated. Use correct torque only. Over tightening is forever.
Best Non-BMW After-Market Ergo Mods
Great after market mods with jewel-like machining are now available for bar backs (several different sizes), and both captain and pillion peg lowering kits. The captain kit has an adapter for changing the shift lever position to go with the lower and more forward peg placement (the kit moves the pegs 1.17 inches down and 1.17 inches forward, with minimal increase in lateral positioning). Also available is a clamp-on back luggage rack platform that clamps onto the BMW stock luggage rack. These products are made in Germany. Great interactive web page! Check it out at M Verholen
Does your left heel touch the top of the side stand lever?
This becomes more of a problem if peg-lowering plates are installed. One owner removed the rubber cap and cut off 1/2 inch.